Post by applianceman on Jan 11, 2010 11:23:28 GMT -5
Maytag Style Dryer Problems
Not Running
THERMAL FUSE
The thermal fuse is the most likely cause for the Herrin styles not to run and this is a good do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. First, disconnect power from dryer. Then look between the top and the front and you should see two clips; press on them with a screwdriver. If you are working on a Herrin style, this should release the top and allow you to lift the top. If pressing on the clips doesn’t release the top, you are probably working on the Newton style then ignore this section. Once the top is up, you should see the heating element behind the tub. The thermal fuse will be mounted on the heater-can just under the red wires that connect the heater. To check the thermal fuse, first remove the two wires from it. Then using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the thermal fuse, if not replace the hi-limit. If you do have continuity, the hi-limit is ok. If you find that the thermal fuse is bad check your vent because if the vent is stopped up the thermal fues will go bad.
DOOR SWITCH
The door switch is a common problem with all dryers and it is an easy do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. First, disconnect power from dryer. On Herrin styles, the top should come up as described above. Once the top is up you should see the door switch at mounted to the front at the top. On Newton dryers you have to remove the front panel by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model use a screwdriver to prize the clips down. This should release the bottom of the panel, then lift the bottom until the top clips release. Once off, you should see the door switch mounted to the front panel. Checking the door switch is the same on both models. First, unplug the wires going to the door switch. Then with the door closed use your ohmmeter to check if you have continuity between the terminals. If you do have continuity, the switch is ok. If you do not have continuity the switch is bad and needs replacing.
MOTOR
The motor is not a common problem but is a easy do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. If your door switch and the hi-limit are ok the motor may be your problem. If when you start your dryer you hear a buzzing noise but it goes away when you release the start switch and the dryer doesn’t run, the motor may be your problem. To check this, first disconnect power from dryer. Then remove the front panel as I described above. Once off, you should see the blower blade and attempt to turn it by hand. If it doesn’t turn, check the blower for obstructions. If there is one remove it and your dryer is fixed. If not, the motor is bad and needs replacing.
Not Heating
VENT
If the vent is stopped up the dryer will sometimes still heat but will take a very long time to dry clothes. One of the signs that the vent is stopped up, is the case of the dryer will get very hot, but the clothes are not dry when dryer stops. Check the vent, it may be clogged, crimped or it just may be too long. As a rule of thumb I like to keep it under 25 feet if possible. Dryer manufactures recommend under 60 feet but every time there is a 90-degree turn, you subtract about 10 feet. So about 25 to 35 feet is all you can do. If your vent is stopped it up can cause many parts to go bad so check your vent after repairing the dryer (no matter what was wrong with the dryer). This not only applies to Maytag dryer repair but any dryer you work on.
HEATING ELEMENT
The heating elements are a common problem with dryers not heating and are an easy do-it-yourself repair. On the Newton style dryers, the heating element is located under the tub on the right in a round heater-can. To access it, first remove the front panel by removing the two screws on each side at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model, prize the clips under the front panel. Then pull out the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. On the Herrin style, the heater is located behind the tub at the top. To access the heater, raise the top by inserting a flat screwdriver in between the top and the front panel. This should release the top so that you can lift it up. Once up, you should see the heater at the back. Checking the heating element is the same for both styles. First disconnect power from dryer then unplug the wires going to the heating element. Next using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the heating element. If you don’t, the heating element is bad and needs replacing, if there is continuity the heating element is ok.
HI-LIMIT
The hi-limit is a common problem with dryers not heating and is an easy do-it-yourself repair. The hi-limit is a safety thermostat located on the heater-can. To access the heater-can, follow the instructions in heating element above. To check the hi-limit, first disconnect power from the dryer. Then unplug the wires going to the hi-limit. Next use your ohmmeter to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the hi-limit. If you don’t have continuity, the hi-limit is bad and needs replacing. If you do have continuity the hi-limit is ok. If you find that the hi-limit is bad, check to see if your vent is clogged because this can cause the hi-limit to go bad. Also if you have to replace the hi-limit, replace the thermal fuse as well. Note that some Maytag dryers don’t have a thermal fuse and in this case just replace the hi-limit.
MOTOR
The motor has a built in switch that comes on when the motor gets to full speed, turning the heater on. There is no easy or safe way to check this because the motor must be running to check it so I recommend that you do not attempt to check this switch. However, most of the time if this switch is what is causing the dryer not to heat, you can fix it by blowing the motor out with an air compressor or a portable air tank. If you don’t have one you can try a vacuum (the air compressor works better). If this doesn’t work and you still think that this is your problem (I can’t say if it is or not) then replace the motor.
Noisy
BLOWER Wheel
If your Maytag dryer is noisy, the blower wheel is the most likely cause. If the blower wheel is bad the dryer will make a roaring noise. To access the blower wheel, first disconnect power and remove the front panel. On Newton style dyers, you remove the front panel by removing the two screws on each side at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model, prize the clips under the front panel. Then pull out the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. On Herrin style dryers, raise the top by inserting a flat screwdriver in between the top and the front panel. This should release the top so that you can lift it up. Once up, you should see two screws that point toward the front that hold the front on, remove them. Now the front panel should lean forward and lift off the bottom clips. Once off, you should be able to see the blower blade. If the blower blade is loose on the motor shaft, replace the blower and also look for obstructions in the blower housing.
ROLLERS
Another cause for your Maytag dryer being noisy is the rollers. To check the rollers, first disconnect power from the dryer. Then remove the front panel as I described above. Then remove the drum by removing the belt. This may be easier if you remove the belt from the back. On some Maytag dryers you must remove another panel in the front to remove the drum. Once the drum is off, you should see two rollers in the back and on some models, one in the front. Spin each roller by hand, if the roller doesn’t spin smoothly the roller is bad and needs replacing. I would recommend changing all of the rollers if one is bad.
IDLER PULLEY
The idler pulley often causes dryers to be noisy. The idler pulley is the pulley that the belt rides on to keep tension on the belt. To check the idler pulley, first disconnect power from dryer. Then if your dryer has an access cover on the back, remove it, otherwise remove the front panel and the drum as I described above. Then spin the idler pulley by hand, if it doesn’t spin smoothly it is bad and needs replacing.
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Not Running
THERMAL FUSE
The thermal fuse is the most likely cause for the Herrin styles not to run and this is a good do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. First, disconnect power from dryer. Then look between the top and the front and you should see two clips; press on them with a screwdriver. If you are working on a Herrin style, this should release the top and allow you to lift the top. If pressing on the clips doesn’t release the top, you are probably working on the Newton style then ignore this section. Once the top is up, you should see the heating element behind the tub. The thermal fuse will be mounted on the heater-can just under the red wires that connect the heater. To check the thermal fuse, first remove the two wires from it. Then using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the thermal fuse, if not replace the hi-limit. If you do have continuity, the hi-limit is ok. If you find that the thermal fuse is bad check your vent because if the vent is stopped up the thermal fues will go bad.
DOOR SWITCH
The door switch is a common problem with all dryers and it is an easy do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. First, disconnect power from dryer. On Herrin styles, the top should come up as described above. Once the top is up you should see the door switch at mounted to the front at the top. On Newton dryers you have to remove the front panel by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model use a screwdriver to prize the clips down. This should release the bottom of the panel, then lift the bottom until the top clips release. Once off, you should see the door switch mounted to the front panel. Checking the door switch is the same on both models. First, unplug the wires going to the door switch. Then with the door closed use your ohmmeter to check if you have continuity between the terminals. If you do have continuity, the switch is ok. If you do not have continuity the switch is bad and needs replacing.
MOTOR
The motor is not a common problem but is a easy do-it-yourself Maytag dryer repair. If your door switch and the hi-limit are ok the motor may be your problem. If when you start your dryer you hear a buzzing noise but it goes away when you release the start switch and the dryer doesn’t run, the motor may be your problem. To check this, first disconnect power from dryer. Then remove the front panel as I described above. Once off, you should see the blower blade and attempt to turn it by hand. If it doesn’t turn, check the blower for obstructions. If there is one remove it and your dryer is fixed. If not, the motor is bad and needs replacing.
Not Heating
VENT
If the vent is stopped up the dryer will sometimes still heat but will take a very long time to dry clothes. One of the signs that the vent is stopped up, is the case of the dryer will get very hot, but the clothes are not dry when dryer stops. Check the vent, it may be clogged, crimped or it just may be too long. As a rule of thumb I like to keep it under 25 feet if possible. Dryer manufactures recommend under 60 feet but every time there is a 90-degree turn, you subtract about 10 feet. So about 25 to 35 feet is all you can do. If your vent is stopped it up can cause many parts to go bad so check your vent after repairing the dryer (no matter what was wrong with the dryer). This not only applies to Maytag dryer repair but any dryer you work on.
HEATING ELEMENT
The heating elements are a common problem with dryers not heating and are an easy do-it-yourself repair. On the Newton style dryers, the heating element is located under the tub on the right in a round heater-can. To access it, first remove the front panel by removing the two screws on each side at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model, prize the clips under the front panel. Then pull out the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. On the Herrin style, the heater is located behind the tub at the top. To access the heater, raise the top by inserting a flat screwdriver in between the top and the front panel. This should release the top so that you can lift it up. Once up, you should see the heater at the back. Checking the heating element is the same for both styles. First disconnect power from dryer then unplug the wires going to the heating element. Next using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the heating element. If you don’t, the heating element is bad and needs replacing, if there is continuity the heating element is ok.
HI-LIMIT
The hi-limit is a common problem with dryers not heating and is an easy do-it-yourself repair. The hi-limit is a safety thermostat located on the heater-can. To access the heater-can, follow the instructions in heating element above. To check the hi-limit, first disconnect power from the dryer. Then unplug the wires going to the hi-limit. Next use your ohmmeter to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the hi-limit. If you don’t have continuity, the hi-limit is bad and needs replacing. If you do have continuity the hi-limit is ok. If you find that the hi-limit is bad, check to see if your vent is clogged because this can cause the hi-limit to go bad. Also if you have to replace the hi-limit, replace the thermal fuse as well. Note that some Maytag dryers don’t have a thermal fuse and in this case just replace the hi-limit.
MOTOR
The motor has a built in switch that comes on when the motor gets to full speed, turning the heater on. There is no easy or safe way to check this because the motor must be running to check it so I recommend that you do not attempt to check this switch. However, most of the time if this switch is what is causing the dryer not to heat, you can fix it by blowing the motor out with an air compressor or a portable air tank. If you don’t have one you can try a vacuum (the air compressor works better). If this doesn’t work and you still think that this is your problem (I can’t say if it is or not) then replace the motor.
Noisy
BLOWER Wheel
If your Maytag dryer is noisy, the blower wheel is the most likely cause. If the blower wheel is bad the dryer will make a roaring noise. To access the blower wheel, first disconnect power and remove the front panel. On Newton style dyers, you remove the front panel by removing the two screws on each side at the bottom of the front panel or if it’s a newer model, prize the clips under the front panel. Then pull out the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. On Herrin style dryers, raise the top by inserting a flat screwdriver in between the top and the front panel. This should release the top so that you can lift it up. Once up, you should see two screws that point toward the front that hold the front on, remove them. Now the front panel should lean forward and lift off the bottom clips. Once off, you should be able to see the blower blade. If the blower blade is loose on the motor shaft, replace the blower and also look for obstructions in the blower housing.
ROLLERS
Another cause for your Maytag dryer being noisy is the rollers. To check the rollers, first disconnect power from the dryer. Then remove the front panel as I described above. Then remove the drum by removing the belt. This may be easier if you remove the belt from the back. On some Maytag dryers you must remove another panel in the front to remove the drum. Once the drum is off, you should see two rollers in the back and on some models, one in the front. Spin each roller by hand, if the roller doesn’t spin smoothly the roller is bad and needs replacing. I would recommend changing all of the rollers if one is bad.
IDLER PULLEY
The idler pulley often causes dryers to be noisy. The idler pulley is the pulley that the belt rides on to keep tension on the belt. To check the idler pulley, first disconnect power from dryer. Then if your dryer has an access cover on the back, remove it, otherwise remove the front panel and the drum as I described above. Then spin the idler pulley by hand, if it doesn’t spin smoothly it is bad and needs replacing.
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