Post by applianceman on Jan 11, 2010 11:01:37 GMT -5
Noisy Whirlpool Dryer
TUB ROLLERS
Tub rollers are the most common cause for a noisy Whirlpool dryer. Tub rollers are what the tub rolls on and when they are bad the dryer will make a roaring or squealing noise. To check the tub rollers, first unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up and once up remove the two screws inside the case that point forward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the, this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. Then the tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out, you should see the two tub rollers then spin them fast by hand. If one of them doesn’t turn smoothly or is noisy when you spin it, replace both of them.
IDLER PULLEY
The idler pulley is another cause for a noisy Whirlpool Dryer. This is the pulley that keeps spring tension on the belt. If the idler pulley is bad the dryer will have a roaring or a squealing noise. To check the idler pulley, first unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that points toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the motor, this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. Then the tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out you should see the idler pulley down in front of the motor. Now spin the idler pulley by hand if it doesn’t spin smoothly or is noisy, it is bad and needs replacing.
Not Running
THERMAL FUSE
The thermal fuse is the most common problem with Whirlpool dryers not running. The thermal fuse cuts the dryer off in the event it overheats. The vent being stopped normally causes dryers to overheat. So if your thermal fuse is bad you should check the vent. To check the thermal fuse, first unplug dryer and remove back. Once the back is off you should be able to see the thermal fuse, it is white and located in the bottom on the left hand side. Now unplug the two wires using your ohmmeter check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals, if not the fuse is bad and needs replacing.
DOOR SWITCH
The door switch cuts the dryer off when you open the door. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up and once the top is up you should be able to see the door switch. Now after making sure the door is closed, remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter ,check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals. If not, the switch is bad and needs replacing.
MOTOR
The motor can cause Whirlpool dryers not to run. Motors can be hard to check and I don’t recommend trying to do so. But if the motor hums when you turn the dryer on, then cuts off after 30 seconds or so. This normally means the motor is bad and needs replacing. However if there is something in the fan blade blocking it from turning this may cause the same problem. So check this before replacing the motor.
TIMER
The timer can cause a Whirlpool dryer not to run, although I rarely see this. The procedure for checking the timer varies with every model. But i can say that if you check everything on this page and don’t find anything wrong the timer is a good possibility.
BELT
If the belt is broke you will hear the motor run when you turn on the dryer but the tub won’t turn. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that point toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now pull on the belt, if its broken it will pull right and you need to replace it.
Not Heating
DRYER VENT
If the vent is stopped up the dryer will sometimes still heat but will take a very long time to dry clothes. One of the signs that the vent is stopped up is the case of the dryer will get very hot but the clothes are not dry when dryer stops. Check the vent it may be clogged, crimped or it just may be too long (as a rule of thumb I like to keep it shorter than 25 feet if possible). Dryer manufacturers recommend under 60 feet but every time there is a 90-degree turn you subtract about 10 feet, so about 25 to 35 feet is all you can do. Vent stopped up can cause many parts to go bad so check your vent after repairing the dryer (no matter what was wrong with the dryer). Be sure to clean the lint trap each time you use the dryer.
DRYER HEATING ELEMENT
To check the dryer heating elements first you should unplug the dryer then remove the back. Once the back is off you should see the heater can. Unplug the heating element using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals if you don’t then the element is bad and needs replacing.
HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTATS
There are two high limit thermostats that cut out the heating element. In the event it becomes too hot, the vent being stopped up can cause this, so if the high limit thermostat is bad check the vent as well. To check the high limits, first unplug the dryer then remove the back. Once off you should see the heater can with the two high limits, unplug the wires from both of them. Using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals of each of the high limits, thus if you don’t have continuity on either one replace both of them. Whirlpool recommends it and they come together in a package.
MOTOR
The motor has a built in switch that comes on when the motor get to full speed, turning the heater on. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that point toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the motor and this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. The tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out, you should see the motor. There is no easy or safe way to check the motor switch because the motor must be running to check it. I recommend that you do not attempt to check this switch. However, most of the time if this switch is what is causing the dryer not to heat, then you can fix it by blowing the motor out an air compressor or if you don’t have one you can try a vacuum (the air compressor works better). If this doesn’t work and you still think that this is your problem (I can’t say if it is or not) then replace the motor.
TIMER
The timer can cause a dryer not to heat, although I rarely see this. The procedure for checking the timer varies with every model. But i can say that if you check everything on this page and don’t find anything wrong the timer is a good guess.
Again I copied this from another site
TUB ROLLERS
Tub rollers are the most common cause for a noisy Whirlpool dryer. Tub rollers are what the tub rolls on and when they are bad the dryer will make a roaring or squealing noise. To check the tub rollers, first unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up and once up remove the two screws inside the case that point forward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the, this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. Then the tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out, you should see the two tub rollers then spin them fast by hand. If one of them doesn’t turn smoothly or is noisy when you spin it, replace both of them.
IDLER PULLEY
The idler pulley is another cause for a noisy Whirlpool Dryer. This is the pulley that keeps spring tension on the belt. If the idler pulley is bad the dryer will have a roaring or a squealing noise. To check the idler pulley, first unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that points toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the motor, this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. Then the tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out you should see the idler pulley down in front of the motor. Now spin the idler pulley by hand if it doesn’t spin smoothly or is noisy, it is bad and needs replacing.
Not Running
THERMAL FUSE
The thermal fuse is the most common problem with Whirlpool dryers not running. The thermal fuse cuts the dryer off in the event it overheats. The vent being stopped normally causes dryers to overheat. So if your thermal fuse is bad you should check the vent. To check the thermal fuse, first unplug dryer and remove back. Once the back is off you should be able to see the thermal fuse, it is white and located in the bottom on the left hand side. Now unplug the two wires using your ohmmeter check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals, if not the fuse is bad and needs replacing.
DOOR SWITCH
The door switch cuts the dryer off when you open the door. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up and once the top is up you should be able to see the door switch. Now after making sure the door is closed, remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter ,check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals. If not, the switch is bad and needs replacing.
MOTOR
The motor can cause Whirlpool dryers not to run. Motors can be hard to check and I don’t recommend trying to do so. But if the motor hums when you turn the dryer on, then cuts off after 30 seconds or so. This normally means the motor is bad and needs replacing. However if there is something in the fan blade blocking it from turning this may cause the same problem. So check this before replacing the motor.
TIMER
The timer can cause a Whirlpool dryer not to run, although I rarely see this. The procedure for checking the timer varies with every model. But i can say that if you check everything on this page and don’t find anything wrong the timer is a good possibility.
BELT
If the belt is broke you will hear the motor run when you turn on the dryer but the tub won’t turn. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that point toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now pull on the belt, if its broken it will pull right and you need to replace it.
Not Heating
DRYER VENT
If the vent is stopped up the dryer will sometimes still heat but will take a very long time to dry clothes. One of the signs that the vent is stopped up is the case of the dryer will get very hot but the clothes are not dry when dryer stops. Check the vent it may be clogged, crimped or it just may be too long (as a rule of thumb I like to keep it shorter than 25 feet if possible). Dryer manufacturers recommend under 60 feet but every time there is a 90-degree turn you subtract about 10 feet, so about 25 to 35 feet is all you can do. Vent stopped up can cause many parts to go bad so check your vent after repairing the dryer (no matter what was wrong with the dryer). Be sure to clean the lint trap each time you use the dryer.
DRYER HEATING ELEMENT
To check the dryer heating elements first you should unplug the dryer then remove the back. Once the back is off you should see the heater can. Unplug the heating element using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals if you don’t then the element is bad and needs replacing.
HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTATS
There are two high limit thermostats that cut out the heating element. In the event it becomes too hot, the vent being stopped up can cause this, so if the high limit thermostat is bad check the vent as well. To check the high limits, first unplug the dryer then remove the back. Once off you should see the heater can with the two high limits, unplug the wires from both of them. Using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals of each of the high limits, thus if you don’t have continuity on either one replace both of them. Whirlpool recommends it and they come together in a package.
MOTOR
The motor has a built in switch that comes on when the motor get to full speed, turning the heater on. First unplug the dryer then take the lint filter out and remove the two screws that are under the filter. Then pull the top forward and lift up on it. The top should lift up, once up remove the two screws inside the case that point toward the front. Then lift up on the front and move it to the side. Now remove the tub by unhooking the belt by pulling the idler pulley toward the motor and this should release the tension from the belt then you should be able remove it. The tub just slides out toward the front. Once the tub is out, you should see the motor. There is no easy or safe way to check the motor switch because the motor must be running to check it. I recommend that you do not attempt to check this switch. However, most of the time if this switch is what is causing the dryer not to heat, then you can fix it by blowing the motor out an air compressor or if you don’t have one you can try a vacuum (the air compressor works better). If this doesn’t work and you still think that this is your problem (I can’t say if it is or not) then replace the motor.
TIMER
The timer can cause a dryer not to heat, although I rarely see this. The procedure for checking the timer varies with every model. But i can say that if you check everything on this page and don’t find anything wrong the timer is a good guess.
Again I copied this from another site