Post by applianceman on Jan 11, 2010 10:23:59 GMT -5
Maytag Style not running
LID SWITCH
The lid switch is the most common problem with Maytag washers. If the lid switch is bad the washer will not make any noise when you turn it on. So if your washer makes noise when you turn it on, but still won’t run, skip this section and move on to the next. Now if your washer doesn’t make any noise when you turn it on, the lid switch or the lid switch actuator is bad.
To check the lid switch actuator, open the lid and look behind it. You should see a small white button. Take a butter knife and press on the button with the lid open. If when you press the button and release it retracts back, the actuator is ok. If not or you don’t see the button, the actuator is bad and needs replacing.
To access the actuator, first disconnect power from washer. Then remove the front panel by removing the two Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel. Then pull the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. Now remove the two 3/8 hex head screws pointing upward then lift up the top. Once the top is up, you can now access the lid switch actuator. The spring is most likely broken but all the parts come together. Note to remove the actuator you will have to remove the lid by simply pulling it toward the front until it comes off. Be careful not to loose the two lid hinge balls.
If the lid switch actuator is not bad then the lid switch is most likely the problem. There are three kinds of lid switches that these Maytag washers used. One was just a simple cherry switch that can be checked easy by first removing the power from washer. Then removing the back of the control panel or on older models, the front. Once off you, should see the lid switch along with all the other control switches. If your washer has the old cherry switch, there will be a single black switch, then remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals with the lid closed. If not, the lid switch is bad and needs replacing. If you have one of the other two switches it is more complicated to check but I would say this is the problem over 95% of the time, so replace the switch.
BELTS
On these Maytag washers there will be two belts - a drive belt and a pump belt. The drive belt is the bigger belt that goes to the transmission pulley. The pump belt is the smaller belt that goes to the pump. If either belt is bad, it can cause the washer not to spin properly.
To check the belts, first disconnect power from washer. Then tilt the washer over so you can easily work on the belts. Next, check to see if the belts are too tight. If the belts are too tight, the motor will not start. If the belts are properly adjusted, there should be enough loose play in the belts that when you squeeze the belts it almost meets in the middle. (see diagram below) If the belts are properly adjusted, remove them and inspect for wear. If they are worn or damaged replace them. Note that there will not be an adjustment for the drive belt, just the pump belt.
If the transmission leaks grease on the belt it will slip, causing the washer not to spin. If so, cleaning it off will only buy you time. The only way to fix it is to change the lower seal in the transmission.
PUMP
The pumps on these Maytag washers do not go bad very often, but it is very common for some things to get hung in them. If this happens, the water will not pump out so if your washer is pumping out ignore this section. To check this, first disconnect power from washer. Then remove the front panel by removing the two Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel. Then pull the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. Once off, you should be able to see the pump on the right hand side. Next you must remove the water from the tub. You can do this by using a Wet-vac or you can dip the water out. Now remove the hose and remove obstructions from the pump.
MOTOR
The motors on these Maytag washers do not go bad very often. The motor sits on a roller that allows the motor to slide back and forth. If the rollers are bad and the motor can’t move back and forth freely, then the motor will not start or if it does start, the washer will not run.
To check the rollers, disconnect power from washer. Then push the motor toward the left hand side. If the rollers are working properly, the motor should move about an inch and when you release it, it should come back to the position it was in. If not, replace the rollers. If so, the motor may be your problem.
To check the motor, first start the washer with both belts in place and the washer sitting on all four feet. If the motor hums but doesn’t run, unplug washer and remove both belts, then restart the washer. If the motor still hums after removing the belts, replace the motor.
If the motor runs after you remove the belts, tilt the washer over so you can see the pulleys. Turn each pulley by hand. If both pulleys turn freely both ways then the motor is bad and needs replacing. If the pump pulley will not turn freely, refer to the pump section above. If the transmission pulley doesn’t turn freely both ways the transmission is bad and needs replacing.
Washer Leaks
AIR GAP
On old Maytag washers there was an air gap in the hose going from the valve to the tub. In my opinion there was no good reason for it to be there but it was and it often leaks. To determine if your washer has an air gap, open the lid and start the washer. If the water enters the tub from a white shoot at the back of the tub, then your washer doesn’t have an air gap, skip this section. If the water enters the tub from under the top lip of the tub then your washer has an air gap and it is a good chance it’s causing your leak.
To check this, first remove the front panel off the washer by removing the two screws from the bottom of the front panel. If you have a newer model, prize the bottom clips with a screwdriver then pull the bottom of the panel until the top clips release. Next remove the 3/8 hex head screws pointing upward holding the top down, lift up the top. Once off, you should see the air gap to the left of the tub. Now start the washer, keep an eye on the air gap because right when you start the washer is when it will leak. If it doesn’t leak, stop and start the washer repeatedly watching the air gap for leaks.
If at any time it leaks loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose going to the valve. When you remove the hose, a rubber sleeve should be in the end of the hose, this is the part that you need to replace. Note that you must remove the nozzle from inside the rubber sleeve and save it to be reinstalled in the new sleeve. Tip- when reinstalling the sleeve into the valve hose, lubricate it with liquid soap, otherwise the rubber will fold over causing the air gap to leak again.
TUB SEAL
The tub seal is the most common thing that causes Maytag washers to leak. This is unfortunate because the tub seal is an expensive repair job and not one I would suggest doing yourself. I say this because it is complicated and requires special tools to perform this job. To check if the tub seal is bad, first remove the front panel by removing the two screws from the bottom of the front panel. If you have a newer model, prize the bottom clips with a screwdriver. Then pull the bottom of the panel until the top clips release. Then start the washer and watch for a leak around transmission where it goes through the tub. If it does leak then the tub seal is bad and needs replacing. If the tub seal doesn’t, leak you probably found the leak while performing this test.
WASHER OVERFILLING
If your Maytag washer is leaking it may be overfilling. If your washer is overfilling the water valve, water level control or the water level hose is bad.
To check this, first open the lid and turn on the washer so the water starts running in the tub. Then turn the washer on and off repeatedly (at least 20 times). If at any time the water doesn’t stop when you turn the washer off, the valve is bad and needs replacing. If the water stops each time you turn the washer off, perform the next test.
Set the water level control at the lowest setting and start the washer. Once the water stops running, move the water level control to the next setting, repeat until the washer is full. If at any time the tub gets completely full unplug the washer. If when you unplug the washer the water doesn’t stop running cut off the water at the wall and replace the water valve. If the water stops when you unplug the washer, the problem is the water level control or the water level hose is stopped up. Check to see if the hose is stopped up, if not replace the water level control.
Again this is not my writing I copied this for for the benefit of other readers.
LID SWITCH
The lid switch is the most common problem with Maytag washers. If the lid switch is bad the washer will not make any noise when you turn it on. So if your washer makes noise when you turn it on, but still won’t run, skip this section and move on to the next. Now if your washer doesn’t make any noise when you turn it on, the lid switch or the lid switch actuator is bad.
To check the lid switch actuator, open the lid and look behind it. You should see a small white button. Take a butter knife and press on the button with the lid open. If when you press the button and release it retracts back, the actuator is ok. If not or you don’t see the button, the actuator is bad and needs replacing.
To access the actuator, first disconnect power from washer. Then remove the front panel by removing the two Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel. Then pull the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. Now remove the two 3/8 hex head screws pointing upward then lift up the top. Once the top is up, you can now access the lid switch actuator. The spring is most likely broken but all the parts come together. Note to remove the actuator you will have to remove the lid by simply pulling it toward the front until it comes off. Be careful not to loose the two lid hinge balls.
If the lid switch actuator is not bad then the lid switch is most likely the problem. There are three kinds of lid switches that these Maytag washers used. One was just a simple cherry switch that can be checked easy by first removing the power from washer. Then removing the back of the control panel or on older models, the front. Once off you, should see the lid switch along with all the other control switches. If your washer has the old cherry switch, there will be a single black switch, then remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals with the lid closed. If not, the lid switch is bad and needs replacing. If you have one of the other two switches it is more complicated to check but I would say this is the problem over 95% of the time, so replace the switch.
BELTS
On these Maytag washers there will be two belts - a drive belt and a pump belt. The drive belt is the bigger belt that goes to the transmission pulley. The pump belt is the smaller belt that goes to the pump. If either belt is bad, it can cause the washer not to spin properly.
To check the belts, first disconnect power from washer. Then tilt the washer over so you can easily work on the belts. Next, check to see if the belts are too tight. If the belts are too tight, the motor will not start. If the belts are properly adjusted, there should be enough loose play in the belts that when you squeeze the belts it almost meets in the middle. (see diagram below) If the belts are properly adjusted, remove them and inspect for wear. If they are worn or damaged replace them. Note that there will not be an adjustment for the drive belt, just the pump belt.
If the transmission leaks grease on the belt it will slip, causing the washer not to spin. If so, cleaning it off will only buy you time. The only way to fix it is to change the lower seal in the transmission.
PUMP
The pumps on these Maytag washers do not go bad very often, but it is very common for some things to get hung in them. If this happens, the water will not pump out so if your washer is pumping out ignore this section. To check this, first disconnect power from washer. Then remove the front panel by removing the two Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel. Then pull the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release. Once off, you should be able to see the pump on the right hand side. Next you must remove the water from the tub. You can do this by using a Wet-vac or you can dip the water out. Now remove the hose and remove obstructions from the pump.
MOTOR
The motors on these Maytag washers do not go bad very often. The motor sits on a roller that allows the motor to slide back and forth. If the rollers are bad and the motor can’t move back and forth freely, then the motor will not start or if it does start, the washer will not run.
To check the rollers, disconnect power from washer. Then push the motor toward the left hand side. If the rollers are working properly, the motor should move about an inch and when you release it, it should come back to the position it was in. If not, replace the rollers. If so, the motor may be your problem.
To check the motor, first start the washer with both belts in place and the washer sitting on all four feet. If the motor hums but doesn’t run, unplug washer and remove both belts, then restart the washer. If the motor still hums after removing the belts, replace the motor.
If the motor runs after you remove the belts, tilt the washer over so you can see the pulleys. Turn each pulley by hand. If both pulleys turn freely both ways then the motor is bad and needs replacing. If the pump pulley will not turn freely, refer to the pump section above. If the transmission pulley doesn’t turn freely both ways the transmission is bad and needs replacing.
Washer Leaks
AIR GAP
On old Maytag washers there was an air gap in the hose going from the valve to the tub. In my opinion there was no good reason for it to be there but it was and it often leaks. To determine if your washer has an air gap, open the lid and start the washer. If the water enters the tub from a white shoot at the back of the tub, then your washer doesn’t have an air gap, skip this section. If the water enters the tub from under the top lip of the tub then your washer has an air gap and it is a good chance it’s causing your leak.
To check this, first remove the front panel off the washer by removing the two screws from the bottom of the front panel. If you have a newer model, prize the bottom clips with a screwdriver then pull the bottom of the panel until the top clips release. Next remove the 3/8 hex head screws pointing upward holding the top down, lift up the top. Once off, you should see the air gap to the left of the tub. Now start the washer, keep an eye on the air gap because right when you start the washer is when it will leak. If it doesn’t leak, stop and start the washer repeatedly watching the air gap for leaks.
If at any time it leaks loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose going to the valve. When you remove the hose, a rubber sleeve should be in the end of the hose, this is the part that you need to replace. Note that you must remove the nozzle from inside the rubber sleeve and save it to be reinstalled in the new sleeve. Tip- when reinstalling the sleeve into the valve hose, lubricate it with liquid soap, otherwise the rubber will fold over causing the air gap to leak again.
TUB SEAL
The tub seal is the most common thing that causes Maytag washers to leak. This is unfortunate because the tub seal is an expensive repair job and not one I would suggest doing yourself. I say this because it is complicated and requires special tools to perform this job. To check if the tub seal is bad, first remove the front panel by removing the two screws from the bottom of the front panel. If you have a newer model, prize the bottom clips with a screwdriver. Then pull the bottom of the panel until the top clips release. Then start the washer and watch for a leak around transmission where it goes through the tub. If it does leak then the tub seal is bad and needs replacing. If the tub seal doesn’t, leak you probably found the leak while performing this test.
WASHER OVERFILLING
If your Maytag washer is leaking it may be overfilling. If your washer is overfilling the water valve, water level control or the water level hose is bad.
To check this, first open the lid and turn on the washer so the water starts running in the tub. Then turn the washer on and off repeatedly (at least 20 times). If at any time the water doesn’t stop when you turn the washer off, the valve is bad and needs replacing. If the water stops each time you turn the washer off, perform the next test.
Set the water level control at the lowest setting and start the washer. Once the water stops running, move the water level control to the next setting, repeat until the washer is full. If at any time the tub gets completely full unplug the washer. If when you unplug the washer the water doesn’t stop running cut off the water at the wall and replace the water valve. If the water stops when you unplug the washer, the problem is the water level control or the water level hose is stopped up. Check to see if the hose is stopped up, if not replace the water level control.
Again this is not my writing I copied this for for the benefit of other readers.