Post by applianceman on Jan 10, 2010 16:04:34 GMT -5
LEAKS ALL THE TIME
Is your GE washer leaking all the time, even when not in use? If so the problem is the fill hoses or the valve. Look behind the washer to see if water is coming from the hoses. If not, take the cover off to the control panel. Once off, you should see if the water valve and if there is leakage - it needs replacing (if it is leaking).
LEAKS DURING FILL CYCLE
Is your GE washer leaking during the fill cycle? If so the problem may be in the valve. Follow instructions above, only this time start the fill cycle before looking at the valve.
If your washer overflows with water during fill cycle your problem is the water level control or the water valve. If you must cut the water off from the house plumbing to stop the water then there is no need for testing, just replace the water valve. First, you need to turn on the washer. The washer should start to fill with water, now cut the washer off and on repeatedly (note to yourself whether the water turned off every time). If it does cut off every time you cut the washer off, then it’s most likely in the water level control. If it keeps running after you cut the washer off then, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. (Note that the valve can stick intermittently so it still may be bad if it passed the test) .
If the water valve doesn’t stick in the first test then you need to check the water level control. First, remove the front of washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front pushing on the clips) then look on the side of the tub and you should see a tube attached to a box. Remove the tube (make sure all the water is out of the tub) look in the tube to see if is stopped up. Often it will stop up near the end. If it is, you can clean it out with a toothpick. Once it’s clean, reinstall it and your washer is fixed. If the tube is not stopped up reinstall the tube. Now set the water level control on the lowest setting and start filling the washer with water. If the water stops when the tub is approximately half full (this varies with every model) turn it up to the next level (you may have to reset it). Repeat until the tub is full. If at any the water level gets above the last row of holes in the tub, unplug the washer. If the water stops running when you unplug the washer, replace the water level control. If the water doesn’t stop, turn the water off at the wall then replace water valve.
LEAKS DURING WASH
Is your GE washer leaking during wash? If so the problem is the tub seal (seals around the transmission where it goes through the tub), drain hoses (including the tub to pump hose) or the pump. First take the front off the washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front, pushing on the clips) then start the fill cycle. Now start watching until you see a leak. If the leak is coming from the tub seal, the transmission needs to be replaced (note that changing the transmission is expensive and takes special tools, so you may consider replacing the washer). If the leak is coming from the drain hose or the pump you need to replace it. If you don’t see it leak at all, your soap may be the problem. To check this fill the washer with water and the amount of soap you normally would use. Then start the washer and watch the tube coming from the left back of the tub (the overflow pipe). If soapsuds come out of the overflow pipe then try cutting down on your soap or switch to another brand. This may fix your problem.
LEAKS DURING PUMP OUT
Is your GE washer leaking during pump out? If so the first thing you should look at is the drainpipe (to your house plumbing). Fill the washer with water, and then turn it to spin and start it. Now while it’s pumping, look at your drainpipe if water backs out (it may not back unless you have soap in the tub), then the problem is in your plumbing. If it doesn’t, follow the same steps as above in “leaks during wash.” Only this time watch for leaks during pump out as well.
Noisy Washer
TRANSMISSION
The transmission is the most common problem with noisy GE washers. The transmission will make a roaring noise when its spinning and this is likely caused by the tub seal (the tub seal is where the transmission goes into the tub) leaking.
SUSPENSION RODS
There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If you use grease make sure the grease you use is lithium based.
WATER PUMP
Washer water pumps can be noisy if something gets in it, striking the impeller. Take the hose off the pump (be ready for some water to spill out) and remove obstruction from pump. If nothing is in the pump then replace the pump.
TIMER
On some later models, I have found the timer can become very noisy. You may only hear it when the washer is in a soak cycle. The only way to fix it is to replace the timer.
Washer won’t spin out
WATER PUMP
If the washer won’t spin but will wash, the most common problem is a bad or clogged water pump. This will cause it not to pump the water out and the washer will not start spinning until the water is pumped out. The first thing you need to do is get the water out (dip it out if you have to) or you can use a pinch off tool. Then unplug washer and if you are using a pinch off tool, pinch the hose that is between the tub and the pump. Now take the hose loose at the pump and feel in the pump to see if it's clogged. If it’s clogged, remove obstruction and if it’s not clogged then replace the pump.
WATER LEVEL CONTROL
If the washer won’t spin but will wash and the water is pumping out then it could be the water level control. The water level control is located in the control panel. To check it, first unplug washer then unplug wires from the control. The terminals should be numbered 7,15 and 16, using your ohmmeter check the control. With no water in the tub there should be continuity from 7 to 15 and with the tub full, there should be continuity from 7 to 16, if not the control is bad and need to be replaced.
TIMER CONTROL
If its not the pump or the water level control then it may be the timer. Timers are hard to check and vary with every model so this is a process of elimination.
TRANSMISSION
The transmission can also be bad. To check this, remove the belt. Then attempt to turn the pulley by hand. It should turn freely both ways. If not the transmission is locked up and needs replacing.
Top and front removal
1. Remove the front by pushing a butter knife (or anything flat, I usually use my truck keys) between the top and the front in line with the grove in the lid as shown.
2. Remove the ¼ inch screws that hold the top on.
3. Remove the top. Note that you have to remove the lid switch if your washer has a magnetic lid switch and if it has a mechanical lid switch you must unplug it.
Agitator Removal
In this section of this GE washer disassembly guide I will walk you through the steps in disassembling the to replace the agitator-coupling.
1. The agitator just lifts straight up and out. Note that it may be hard but if you can get your fingers under it and rock it back and forth it will slip up. Also note that if you are unable to get your fingers under it you can slip a belt under it and pull from the belt.
2. Under the agitator you should see the agitator-coupling, remove it using a 7/16 socket.
Spin Basket Removal/Tub seal Replacement
In this section of this GE washer disassembly guide I will walk you through the steps in disassembling the to replace the tub seal.
1. Follow steps in top and front removal and agitator removal.
2. Next remove the four 5/16 screws that hold the damping straps on.
3. Unhook the drain hose on the bottom of the tub.
4. Unhook the small water level tube on the left hand side.
5. Unplug the motor and remove the ground screw.
6. Lift up on the tub and unhook all four of the suspension rods.
7. Lift up on the whole unit and bring it out of the case bottom first as shown.
8. Remove the cover off of the tub as shown. Note be careful not to over bend the tabs or it may not snap back in place.
9. Remove the left-handed 1-11/16 hub nut. Note that the tool shown is a tool designed for removing this nut and the part number is WX5X1325. Also note that you may be able to remove this nut using a wrench but typically they are too long so if you have to buy a tool to remove this nut, buy the one I describe above.
10. Lift the spin basket up and out of the tub.
11. Remove the split ring. Note this split ring will break easily, so be careful.
12. Remove the hub washer.
Note that at this point in GE washer disassembly you can replace the tub seal. Just use a screwdriver to prize the old one out. Then tap the new one in with a blunt object such as a nut driver with out a socket making sure it is seated good.
Transmission Removal
In this section of this GE washer disassembly guide I will walk you through the steps in disassembling the to replace the transmission.
1. Follow steps in Top and front removal, agitator removal and spin basket removal.
2. Turn the unit over as shown.
3. Remove the ¾ nuts holding the transmission pulley on. Note that you have to somehow stop the pulley from turning in order to remove the nut. They make a special tool for this but I do it the way shown without the tool. Also you can also hold the belt by hand.
4. Remove the four 3/8 screws that hold the transmission to the to the platform.
5. Remove the ½ inch screws that hold the platform to the tub.
6. Lift the platform up and off of the transmission.
7. Lift the transmission up and out of the tub.
8. Using a long screwdriver knock the old tub seal out from the bottom of the tub.
Motor and clutch removal
1. Remove the front as shown in the first step in front and top removal.
2. Remove the 3/8-inch nuts under the motor.
3. Turn the transmission to allow you to lean the motor back and slide it out.
4. To remove the clutch (not on newer models) turn the motor over and remove the clip that holds the clutch on.
5. Lift the clutch up and off the motor shaft.
This info was taken from someone eleses post on another board but I thought it might be helpful.