Post by applianceman on Jan 11, 2010 13:49:09 GMT -5
Dishwasher Problems
Won’t run at all
DOOR LATCH
If your dishwasher is not running, the door latch may be the problem. The door latch depresses the door switch when you close the door starting the dishwasher.
On some GE dishwashers the door latch had a handle so you had to lock the door manually. Sometimes this handle would become rusty and you wouldn’t be able to move it to the latch position. In this, case you can try to loosen it with WD-40, but I would recommend replacing the latch.
On most others brands and GE dishwashers without the manual lock you just push the door closed and the door locks. Then when you open you press a release button. Normally if you hear a click when you close the door the latch is ok. If you don’t hear the click replace the door latch.
DOOR SWITCH
If your dishwasher is not running the door switch can be your problem. The door switch is not a common problem but to check them first disconnect power from dishwasher. Then open door and separate the inner door from the outer door. Once separated, you should see the door switch on the outer door then remove the wires from it. Using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals when you depress the switch, if there is no continuity the switch is bad and needs replacing. On most dishwashers there are two door switches that are just alike, check each one as described.
CONTROL
On any dishwasher with an electronic control that is not running, disconnect power for 30 seconds or more. Then reconnect power and the dishwasher may start working again, if so replace the control. If not, you problem may still be in the control but check all other possibilities first then if you don’t find any other problem, replace control. This is because you will not be able to check the control. Same thing goes if you have a mechanical timer. These two parts are just process of elimination.
MOTOR
If your dishwasher is not running, the motor may be your problem. Sometimes when you don’t use a dishwasher very often the motor gets stuck. When this happens you will hear a buzzing noise when you start the dishwasher. You can check this by disconnecting power from your dishwasher then removing the bottom front panel. Once off you should see the main pump with a motor attached. Most of these motors will have a fan, reach under the dishwasher and turn the fan by hand a little ways. If the fan, will not turn replace the motor (note you may have to replace the whole pump as well). If the fan will turn, reconnect power and start the dishwasher. If the dishwasher runs use it but if the motor gets stuck again replace the motor.
Leaking
SOAPSUDS
Excessive soapsuds are the most common reason dishwashers leak. Excessive soapsuds will cause dishwashers to leak from the door. Good dishwasher detergent will have no more than ½ inch of suds on top of the water. So any time your dishwasher is leaking from the door open the door, if there is more than a ½ inch of suds your problem is in your soap. One drop of hand soap, hand dishwashing soap, or any other soap will cause dishwashers to leak. Now, I am not suggesting that you intentionally put this soap in the dishwasher because if you did the soapsuds would be from top-to-bottom of your dishwasher. Now if there are a lot of suds you can fix it by pouring vinegar or cold water into the dishwasher and running it, this will kill the subs.
A few years ago dishwasher detergent companies started making these three-in-one tablets or sometimes called three-in-one action packs for dishwashers and they will sometimes cause dishwashers to leak. At first, I only would see this problem with Electrasol three-in-one tablets but then Cascade started having the same problem. I hate to call these companies out, but I have gone on a lot of service calls because of their detergent. Don’t get me wrong, both companies have good powder and liquid detergent, just not the tablets. So if you have this problem, try changing back to the powder or liquid detergent and this may fix your problem.
DOOR
Often dishwashers leak through the door. The most common mistake people make when repairing leaking dishwashers is they automatically think if it’s coming from the door, it’s got to be the door gasket. In most cases, they are wrong because I have only seen three or four door gaskets bad since I have been an appliance repairman. I am not saying it can’t be your problem, but it’s unlikely. So if your door gasket is not ripped or torn off, look for other problems.
If the leak is coming through the door and you determined isn’t soapsuds, it can be leaking through the soap cup or rinse aid dispenser. To check this, first disconnect power from dishwasher. Then open the door and separate the inter door from the outer door by removing the screws that hold them together. Now hold the outer door down. If water has been leaking through the door the insulation will be wet. If so, replace the soap cup and the rinse aid dispenser.
If not the wash arm or wash arm housing may have a hole in them. This will causing water to spray under the door, replace both of them because you may not be able to see the hole.
WATER VALVE
The water valve can cause dishwashers to leak in two ways. Dishwashers leak from the water valve itself and the water valve can stick and causing the tub to overflow. To check this, first remove the bottom front panel. Then start the dishwasher and look at the valve. If you start to see a leak replace the valve. If not, open the door of the dishwasher and look at the left hand side to see if water continues to come in the dishwasher, if so replace the valve. If not repeat this step a few times. If it passes this test at least five times, you can say the water valve is ok.
BOOT OR PUMP COUPLING
Often GE dishwashers leak from the boot or the pump coupling. Note that not all GE dishwashers have these parts. The boot connects the sump (there the water goes when it falls down to the bottom of the tub) to the pump and the pump coupling connects the pump to the tub or the wash arm. To check these, parts remove the bottom front panel and start the dishwasher. Both of these are made of rubber and they often get pinholes, so look carefully for a fine mist of water. Also you can check for hoses leaking at the same time. If you see a leak in one of these, replace it. One tip I can give you is that it will be easier for you to replace these parts if you remove the dishwasher, But it can be done without doing so.
PUMP SEAL
Sometimes dishwashers leak from the pump seal. This doesn’t happen often, but it happens. To check this, remove the bottom front panel and start the dishwasher. Now if the leak is coming from the bottom of the motor then the pump seal is leaking (be sure the leak isn’t just coming from above the motor and running down). Replacing the pump seal on some dishwashers can be tricky but if you have mechanical skills you should be able to handle it. If you have an older GE dishwasher, you must remove the pump, disassemble the pump and reinstall every part that comes with the pump seal kit. On most other brands you replace the pump seal from inside the dishwasher, when you order the tub seal make sure you order the pump gasket kit as well, because you need to replace all the gaskets. In any case, replacing the pump seal will be much cheaper than replacing the whole pump.
Not Draining
PISTON VALVE
On GE dishwashers that have a filter (screen) along the back wall of the tub have a piston valve. The piston valve commonly causes dishwashers not to pump out. Note that some GE dishwashers do not have a filter and this section does not apply to these dishwashers. But if your dishwasher does have a filter, remove it. Now remove the piston valve located in the center behind the filter. Now to check the piston valve, press up on the spring. Once done the piston should stop up the hole in the top of the valve. When a piston valve, is bad the piston dissolves to the point that it can no longer stop up the hole, in this case replace it. If not, reinstall it and move on to the next section.
DRAIN SOLENOID
On GE dishwashers, a common problem that will cause it not to drain properly is the drain solenoid. To check this, first disconnect power from dishwasher then remove the bottom panel of dishwasher. Once off, you should see the drain solenoid attached to the main pump then reach under the dishwasher and push down on the solenoid. If it will not move down it is bad and needs replacing. If it will push, down most of the time it is good but not always so follow these steps as well. Reconnect power to dishwasher, now start the dishwasher in to a cycle. If you have a mechanical timer turn it slowly until the solenoid energizes. If you turn the timer all the way around and the solenoid never energizes replace the solenoid. If you have an electronic control, start the dishwasher and wait a few minutes then push start/reset then the drain solenoid should energizes, if not replace the solenoid. At times the timer will cause this part to go bad especially if its melted or frozen down. So you may have to replace the timer as well.
CHECK VALVE
If your GE dishwasher is not draining properly, the check valve may be your problem. The check valve will be on GE dishwashers with both a separate drain pump and a drain solenoid (note if you do not have both you will not have a check valve). The check valve will be located where the black hose connects to the drain pump. To access the check valve, you must first remove the water from the dishwasher. A Wet-Vac works well for this, a turkey baser works ok or a small cup will do the job. After the water is out, disconnect power to dishwasher. Now remove the dishwasher from under the cabinet. Yes I know it’s a pain but you will never do this with it under the cabinet. Now remove the black hose (even though you removed the water you will still have water in the pump so be ready).Once off you should see the check valve. It’s the little red rubber flap. If it is torn off, the flap may have gone down the drain but you still should see the red ring left behind, in this case replace the valve. Sometimes the check valve will swell up and hang in the pump, if so replace it. If the valve looks ok, read the next section before you reinstall your dishwasher.
DRAIN PUMP
If your GE dishwasher is not draining properly, the drain pump may be your problem. As stated before, not all GE dishwashers will have a drain pump, just some newer ones. I haven’t seen many drain pumps bad but I have seen things get hung up in them, stopping them from working. To check this, follow the steps in the check valve section. Only when you remove the black hose look inside the pump. If something is in it, remove the obstruction and your dishwasher should be fixed.
DRAIN HOSE
If your dishwasher is not draining properly, the drain hose may be stopped up. This is not common but I run into it sometimes. To check, remove all the water from tub. A Wet-Vac works well for this, a turkey baser works ok or a small cup will do the job. After the water is gone remove the drain hose (even though you removed the water you will still have water in the pump so be ready) from the house plumbing and the dishwasher. Take it outside to your water hose. From there you should be able to clean it out. Reinstall it and your dishwasher is fixed.
Dishes not getting clean
NO WATER
If your dishwasher is not cleaning then it may not be getting water. If no water is getting in your dishwasher, your problem can be the dishwasher water valve, float switch or your house plumbing.
To check to see if your dishwasher is getting water first, turn the washer on. Then wait; it can take a few minutes for it to reach the fill cycle. Then open the door. If there is no water, continue reading this section, if there is water skip to wash arm.
First make sure the water is turned on to your dishwasher (I have been on service calls because the water was turned off). Now restart dishwasher, put your finger on the water valve (do not touch the wires!!!!) and wait. When the dishwasher reaches the fill cycle, you should feel a vibration on the water valve. If you do feel the vibration and no water enters the washer, replace the water valve.
If you never feel the vibration open the door, in one of the front corners there will be a float. Remove the cover off the float and make sure the float is free to move up and down. Sometimes soap will build up around the float causing it to stick. If this happens clean off the soap and reinstall the float you and problem should be fixed.
Now if the float is free to move up and down the switch may be your problem. The easiest way to check this is to move the float up and down. Each time you do so you should hear a faint clicking noise, but just to be sure this is how you check the switch. First disconnect power from your dishwasher. Then remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter , check continuity between the two terminals while the float is in down. If you don’t have continuity, the switch is bad and needs replacing. If you do, the switch is ok your problem is elsewhere.
WASH ARM
If your dishwasher is not cleaning, your wash arm may be broken or not turning. To check to see if your wash arm is turning, perform this test. First start your dishwasher and make sure water enters. Wait until the water is finished running then open the door and note the position of the wash arm (remove bottom rack for better view). Now close the door for 10 seconds or so, then open the door. The wash arm should be in a different position and on some models you may still see the wash arm turning. Repeat this a few times to be sure. Now if the wash doesn’t seem to be turning there are a few things that can cause this. First check to see if the holes in the wash arm are stopped up. If they are, clean them out and your problem should be fixed. If not, check to see if the wash arm spins freely. If it doesn’t spin freely, replace the wash arm and any bearings that the wash arm spins on.
DRAINING
If you dishwasher is not cleaning, it may not be draining properly; therefore, cleaning with dirty water. To check, this first start the dishwasher and wait until the entire cycle is done. Then open the door and if you see water standing in the bottom of the tub the dishwasher is not draining.
Dispenser Problems
Insulation block
Some GE dishwashers have black insulation stuck to the back side of the inner door. At times this insulation will slip down and block the dishwasher detergent dispenser. First, separate the inner door from the other door by removing the screws around the inner door. Then look to see if the insulation is down blocking the detergent dispenser and if so remove it and the problem is fixed. This can cause the dispenser to stick open or closed. Do not worry about replacing the insulation because it is only for sound dampening. I don’t think you will see much difference in the sound of the machine.
Spring Broken
Behind the timer there is an actuator. A cam on the front of the timer lifts this actuator up. When the actuator is lifted up the detergent dispenser is released. There is a spring that holds the actuator tight against the cam, if the spring is broken the dispenser can stick open or closed. To repair this, separate the inner door from the outer door by removing the screws on the inner door. Once done, you should be able to see the spring. It should be connected as shown below and if not get a new spring and replace it. Note that some models with this type of detergent dispenser don’t have a timer they just have a motor that turns the cam.
Detergent Module With Wax Motor
This type of dishwasher detergent dispenser is used on most GE dishwashers today. This type dishwasher detergent dispenser uses a wax motor to activate the dispenser door and rinse aid dispenser. But before you check the wax motor, check to see if the dispenser door is working mechanically. Close the dispenser door and if it will not catch look on the back to see if any of the mechanical parts are out of place or broken. Unfortunately, GE doesn’t sell individual parts for this module so if any mechanical parts are broken you will have to replace the whole module.
Next, if there is nothing wrong mechanically, you will have to determine if the wax motor is bad or if the control is bad. On some of these dishwashers you can enter the control into a service mode and activate the detergent module. Directions for doing so will be on the mini manual located under the washer between the tub and the metal shield just under the tub. I cannot tell you how to do this because it is different for some models. If it activates and opens in the service mode but will not do so during a regular cycle, the control is bad. If it sends voltage down to the wax motor but the motor will not move (give it some time) the wax motor is bad. If it doesn’t send voltage to the wax motor the control is bad.
If you don’t have the mini manual or your model doesn’t allow you to do a service mode, you can check the motor with an ohmmeter. The wax motor should read from 1200-2800 ohms. Be sure to set your meter to read at least 2800 ohms.
Smart Dispense
This type of dishwasher detergent dispenser is uses on higher-end GE profile dishwashers. The smart dispense system allows you to pour an entire jug of liquid detergent into the dishwasher at once and it automatically dispenses detergent into the dishwasher in the correct amount with each wash. The amount varies depending on the hardness of your water and how dirty your dishes are. The soil sensor (turbidity sensor) determines how dirty your dishes are. You or your installer must program how hard or soft your water is (see your owners manual). There is a sensor that monitors the amount of detergent left in the reservoir and a low detergent light will come on when it gets low. Note that if you do not wish to use the smart dispenser system you can turn off the low detergent light. On most models pressing the added heat button five times within 3 seconds does this. Do the same to turn it back on. IF this doesn’t work or you do not have a button that says added heat, see your owner’s manual.
Wax Motors
Most dishwasher detergent dispensers on most brand dishwashers today use wax motors. Some use two, one for the detergent and the other for the rinse aid. Overall, wax motors don’t give a lot of trouble so before considering the wax motor; check all mechanical linkages and springs. Wax motors are basically the same but depending on the motor the ohms across the motor varies. GE wax motors are 1200-2800 ohms and a lot of Whirlpool wax motors are 600-1800 ohms. The best thing is to refer to the mini manual provided with the dishwasher. If you don’t have a mini manual, I suggest checking ohms with your meter set to the highest setting and if it reads open replace it. If it doesn’t, assume it is good but the only way to know for sure is to monitor the voltage coming to the motor. If it gets voltage but will not move, the motor is bad. If it doesn’t get voltage the control is bad. Note that unless you check you mini manual you will not know exactly when the control will activate the wax motor. It should be sometime in the main wash cycle. If your dishwasher has a mechanical timer you can turn it slowly while monitoring voltage, at some point you should see voltage at the wax motor. If your dishwasher has an electronic control you may be able to enter it into a service mode to manually activate the wax motor. Refer to the mini manual provided with the dishwasher for instructions on how to do so.
Springs
All dishwasher detergent dispensers have some sort of spring that opens the detergent door. It is very common for the spring to break on Whirlpool dishwashers with the dispenser door at the bottom right of the dishwasher door. Other springs such as the round type for GE hardly ever break but if they do, the dispenser will not work. So check to see if the spring is broken and if so replace it.
Some dishwashers have a dispenser modular and individual parts cannot be purchased. In this case you will have to replace the whole modular.
On some older Maytag dishwashers it is very common for the hook that sticks through the inner door that the dispenser door locks into will wear out or the spring will break. Look below the dispenser door and see if the hook is worn or if it doesn’t have spring tension.
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Won’t run at all
DOOR LATCH
If your dishwasher is not running, the door latch may be the problem. The door latch depresses the door switch when you close the door starting the dishwasher.
On some GE dishwashers the door latch had a handle so you had to lock the door manually. Sometimes this handle would become rusty and you wouldn’t be able to move it to the latch position. In this, case you can try to loosen it with WD-40, but I would recommend replacing the latch.
On most others brands and GE dishwashers without the manual lock you just push the door closed and the door locks. Then when you open you press a release button. Normally if you hear a click when you close the door the latch is ok. If you don’t hear the click replace the door latch.
DOOR SWITCH
If your dishwasher is not running the door switch can be your problem. The door switch is not a common problem but to check them first disconnect power from dishwasher. Then open door and separate the inner door from the outer door. Once separated, you should see the door switch on the outer door then remove the wires from it. Using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the two terminals when you depress the switch, if there is no continuity the switch is bad and needs replacing. On most dishwashers there are two door switches that are just alike, check each one as described.
CONTROL
On any dishwasher with an electronic control that is not running, disconnect power for 30 seconds or more. Then reconnect power and the dishwasher may start working again, if so replace the control. If not, you problem may still be in the control but check all other possibilities first then if you don’t find any other problem, replace control. This is because you will not be able to check the control. Same thing goes if you have a mechanical timer. These two parts are just process of elimination.
MOTOR
If your dishwasher is not running, the motor may be your problem. Sometimes when you don’t use a dishwasher very often the motor gets stuck. When this happens you will hear a buzzing noise when you start the dishwasher. You can check this by disconnecting power from your dishwasher then removing the bottom front panel. Once off you should see the main pump with a motor attached. Most of these motors will have a fan, reach under the dishwasher and turn the fan by hand a little ways. If the fan, will not turn replace the motor (note you may have to replace the whole pump as well). If the fan will turn, reconnect power and start the dishwasher. If the dishwasher runs use it but if the motor gets stuck again replace the motor.
Leaking
SOAPSUDS
Excessive soapsuds are the most common reason dishwashers leak. Excessive soapsuds will cause dishwashers to leak from the door. Good dishwasher detergent will have no more than ½ inch of suds on top of the water. So any time your dishwasher is leaking from the door open the door, if there is more than a ½ inch of suds your problem is in your soap. One drop of hand soap, hand dishwashing soap, or any other soap will cause dishwashers to leak. Now, I am not suggesting that you intentionally put this soap in the dishwasher because if you did the soapsuds would be from top-to-bottom of your dishwasher. Now if there are a lot of suds you can fix it by pouring vinegar or cold water into the dishwasher and running it, this will kill the subs.
A few years ago dishwasher detergent companies started making these three-in-one tablets or sometimes called three-in-one action packs for dishwashers and they will sometimes cause dishwashers to leak. At first, I only would see this problem with Electrasol three-in-one tablets but then Cascade started having the same problem. I hate to call these companies out, but I have gone on a lot of service calls because of their detergent. Don’t get me wrong, both companies have good powder and liquid detergent, just not the tablets. So if you have this problem, try changing back to the powder or liquid detergent and this may fix your problem.
DOOR
Often dishwashers leak through the door. The most common mistake people make when repairing leaking dishwashers is they automatically think if it’s coming from the door, it’s got to be the door gasket. In most cases, they are wrong because I have only seen three or four door gaskets bad since I have been an appliance repairman. I am not saying it can’t be your problem, but it’s unlikely. So if your door gasket is not ripped or torn off, look for other problems.
If the leak is coming through the door and you determined isn’t soapsuds, it can be leaking through the soap cup or rinse aid dispenser. To check this, first disconnect power from dishwasher. Then open the door and separate the inter door from the outer door by removing the screws that hold them together. Now hold the outer door down. If water has been leaking through the door the insulation will be wet. If so, replace the soap cup and the rinse aid dispenser.
If not the wash arm or wash arm housing may have a hole in them. This will causing water to spray under the door, replace both of them because you may not be able to see the hole.
WATER VALVE
The water valve can cause dishwashers to leak in two ways. Dishwashers leak from the water valve itself and the water valve can stick and causing the tub to overflow. To check this, first remove the bottom front panel. Then start the dishwasher and look at the valve. If you start to see a leak replace the valve. If not, open the door of the dishwasher and look at the left hand side to see if water continues to come in the dishwasher, if so replace the valve. If not repeat this step a few times. If it passes this test at least five times, you can say the water valve is ok.
BOOT OR PUMP COUPLING
Often GE dishwashers leak from the boot or the pump coupling. Note that not all GE dishwashers have these parts. The boot connects the sump (there the water goes when it falls down to the bottom of the tub) to the pump and the pump coupling connects the pump to the tub or the wash arm. To check these, parts remove the bottom front panel and start the dishwasher. Both of these are made of rubber and they often get pinholes, so look carefully for a fine mist of water. Also you can check for hoses leaking at the same time. If you see a leak in one of these, replace it. One tip I can give you is that it will be easier for you to replace these parts if you remove the dishwasher, But it can be done without doing so.
PUMP SEAL
Sometimes dishwashers leak from the pump seal. This doesn’t happen often, but it happens. To check this, remove the bottom front panel and start the dishwasher. Now if the leak is coming from the bottom of the motor then the pump seal is leaking (be sure the leak isn’t just coming from above the motor and running down). Replacing the pump seal on some dishwashers can be tricky but if you have mechanical skills you should be able to handle it. If you have an older GE dishwasher, you must remove the pump, disassemble the pump and reinstall every part that comes with the pump seal kit. On most other brands you replace the pump seal from inside the dishwasher, when you order the tub seal make sure you order the pump gasket kit as well, because you need to replace all the gaskets. In any case, replacing the pump seal will be much cheaper than replacing the whole pump.
Not Draining
PISTON VALVE
On GE dishwashers that have a filter (screen) along the back wall of the tub have a piston valve. The piston valve commonly causes dishwashers not to pump out. Note that some GE dishwashers do not have a filter and this section does not apply to these dishwashers. But if your dishwasher does have a filter, remove it. Now remove the piston valve located in the center behind the filter. Now to check the piston valve, press up on the spring. Once done the piston should stop up the hole in the top of the valve. When a piston valve, is bad the piston dissolves to the point that it can no longer stop up the hole, in this case replace it. If not, reinstall it and move on to the next section.
DRAIN SOLENOID
On GE dishwashers, a common problem that will cause it not to drain properly is the drain solenoid. To check this, first disconnect power from dishwasher then remove the bottom panel of dishwasher. Once off, you should see the drain solenoid attached to the main pump then reach under the dishwasher and push down on the solenoid. If it will not move down it is bad and needs replacing. If it will push, down most of the time it is good but not always so follow these steps as well. Reconnect power to dishwasher, now start the dishwasher in to a cycle. If you have a mechanical timer turn it slowly until the solenoid energizes. If you turn the timer all the way around and the solenoid never energizes replace the solenoid. If you have an electronic control, start the dishwasher and wait a few minutes then push start/reset then the drain solenoid should energizes, if not replace the solenoid. At times the timer will cause this part to go bad especially if its melted or frozen down. So you may have to replace the timer as well.
CHECK VALVE
If your GE dishwasher is not draining properly, the check valve may be your problem. The check valve will be on GE dishwashers with both a separate drain pump and a drain solenoid (note if you do not have both you will not have a check valve). The check valve will be located where the black hose connects to the drain pump. To access the check valve, you must first remove the water from the dishwasher. A Wet-Vac works well for this, a turkey baser works ok or a small cup will do the job. After the water is out, disconnect power to dishwasher. Now remove the dishwasher from under the cabinet. Yes I know it’s a pain but you will never do this with it under the cabinet. Now remove the black hose (even though you removed the water you will still have water in the pump so be ready).Once off you should see the check valve. It’s the little red rubber flap. If it is torn off, the flap may have gone down the drain but you still should see the red ring left behind, in this case replace the valve. Sometimes the check valve will swell up and hang in the pump, if so replace it. If the valve looks ok, read the next section before you reinstall your dishwasher.
DRAIN PUMP
If your GE dishwasher is not draining properly, the drain pump may be your problem. As stated before, not all GE dishwashers will have a drain pump, just some newer ones. I haven’t seen many drain pumps bad but I have seen things get hung up in them, stopping them from working. To check this, follow the steps in the check valve section. Only when you remove the black hose look inside the pump. If something is in it, remove the obstruction and your dishwasher should be fixed.
DRAIN HOSE
If your dishwasher is not draining properly, the drain hose may be stopped up. This is not common but I run into it sometimes. To check, remove all the water from tub. A Wet-Vac works well for this, a turkey baser works ok or a small cup will do the job. After the water is gone remove the drain hose (even though you removed the water you will still have water in the pump so be ready) from the house plumbing and the dishwasher. Take it outside to your water hose. From there you should be able to clean it out. Reinstall it and your dishwasher is fixed.
Dishes not getting clean
NO WATER
If your dishwasher is not cleaning then it may not be getting water. If no water is getting in your dishwasher, your problem can be the dishwasher water valve, float switch or your house plumbing.
To check to see if your dishwasher is getting water first, turn the washer on. Then wait; it can take a few minutes for it to reach the fill cycle. Then open the door. If there is no water, continue reading this section, if there is water skip to wash arm.
First make sure the water is turned on to your dishwasher (I have been on service calls because the water was turned off). Now restart dishwasher, put your finger on the water valve (do not touch the wires!!!!) and wait. When the dishwasher reaches the fill cycle, you should feel a vibration on the water valve. If you do feel the vibration and no water enters the washer, replace the water valve.
If you never feel the vibration open the door, in one of the front corners there will be a float. Remove the cover off the float and make sure the float is free to move up and down. Sometimes soap will build up around the float causing it to stick. If this happens clean off the soap and reinstall the float you and problem should be fixed.
Now if the float is free to move up and down the switch may be your problem. The easiest way to check this is to move the float up and down. Each time you do so you should hear a faint clicking noise, but just to be sure this is how you check the switch. First disconnect power from your dishwasher. Then remove the wires from the switch. Then using your ohmmeter , check continuity between the two terminals while the float is in down. If you don’t have continuity, the switch is bad and needs replacing. If you do, the switch is ok your problem is elsewhere.
WASH ARM
If your dishwasher is not cleaning, your wash arm may be broken or not turning. To check to see if your wash arm is turning, perform this test. First start your dishwasher and make sure water enters. Wait until the water is finished running then open the door and note the position of the wash arm (remove bottom rack for better view). Now close the door for 10 seconds or so, then open the door. The wash arm should be in a different position and on some models you may still see the wash arm turning. Repeat this a few times to be sure. Now if the wash doesn’t seem to be turning there are a few things that can cause this. First check to see if the holes in the wash arm are stopped up. If they are, clean them out and your problem should be fixed. If not, check to see if the wash arm spins freely. If it doesn’t spin freely, replace the wash arm and any bearings that the wash arm spins on.
DRAINING
If you dishwasher is not cleaning, it may not be draining properly; therefore, cleaning with dirty water. To check, this first start the dishwasher and wait until the entire cycle is done. Then open the door and if you see water standing in the bottom of the tub the dishwasher is not draining.
Dispenser Problems
Insulation block
Some GE dishwashers have black insulation stuck to the back side of the inner door. At times this insulation will slip down and block the dishwasher detergent dispenser. First, separate the inner door from the other door by removing the screws around the inner door. Then look to see if the insulation is down blocking the detergent dispenser and if so remove it and the problem is fixed. This can cause the dispenser to stick open or closed. Do not worry about replacing the insulation because it is only for sound dampening. I don’t think you will see much difference in the sound of the machine.
Spring Broken
Behind the timer there is an actuator. A cam on the front of the timer lifts this actuator up. When the actuator is lifted up the detergent dispenser is released. There is a spring that holds the actuator tight against the cam, if the spring is broken the dispenser can stick open or closed. To repair this, separate the inner door from the outer door by removing the screws on the inner door. Once done, you should be able to see the spring. It should be connected as shown below and if not get a new spring and replace it. Note that some models with this type of detergent dispenser don’t have a timer they just have a motor that turns the cam.
Detergent Module With Wax Motor
This type of dishwasher detergent dispenser is used on most GE dishwashers today. This type dishwasher detergent dispenser uses a wax motor to activate the dispenser door and rinse aid dispenser. But before you check the wax motor, check to see if the dispenser door is working mechanically. Close the dispenser door and if it will not catch look on the back to see if any of the mechanical parts are out of place or broken. Unfortunately, GE doesn’t sell individual parts for this module so if any mechanical parts are broken you will have to replace the whole module.
Next, if there is nothing wrong mechanically, you will have to determine if the wax motor is bad or if the control is bad. On some of these dishwashers you can enter the control into a service mode and activate the detergent module. Directions for doing so will be on the mini manual located under the washer between the tub and the metal shield just under the tub. I cannot tell you how to do this because it is different for some models. If it activates and opens in the service mode but will not do so during a regular cycle, the control is bad. If it sends voltage down to the wax motor but the motor will not move (give it some time) the wax motor is bad. If it doesn’t send voltage to the wax motor the control is bad.
If you don’t have the mini manual or your model doesn’t allow you to do a service mode, you can check the motor with an ohmmeter. The wax motor should read from 1200-2800 ohms. Be sure to set your meter to read at least 2800 ohms.
Smart Dispense
This type of dishwasher detergent dispenser is uses on higher-end GE profile dishwashers. The smart dispense system allows you to pour an entire jug of liquid detergent into the dishwasher at once and it automatically dispenses detergent into the dishwasher in the correct amount with each wash. The amount varies depending on the hardness of your water and how dirty your dishes are. The soil sensor (turbidity sensor) determines how dirty your dishes are. You or your installer must program how hard or soft your water is (see your owners manual). There is a sensor that monitors the amount of detergent left in the reservoir and a low detergent light will come on when it gets low. Note that if you do not wish to use the smart dispenser system you can turn off the low detergent light. On most models pressing the added heat button five times within 3 seconds does this. Do the same to turn it back on. IF this doesn’t work or you do not have a button that says added heat, see your owner’s manual.
Wax Motors
Most dishwasher detergent dispensers on most brand dishwashers today use wax motors. Some use two, one for the detergent and the other for the rinse aid. Overall, wax motors don’t give a lot of trouble so before considering the wax motor; check all mechanical linkages and springs. Wax motors are basically the same but depending on the motor the ohms across the motor varies. GE wax motors are 1200-2800 ohms and a lot of Whirlpool wax motors are 600-1800 ohms. The best thing is to refer to the mini manual provided with the dishwasher. If you don’t have a mini manual, I suggest checking ohms with your meter set to the highest setting and if it reads open replace it. If it doesn’t, assume it is good but the only way to know for sure is to monitor the voltage coming to the motor. If it gets voltage but will not move, the motor is bad. If it doesn’t get voltage the control is bad. Note that unless you check you mini manual you will not know exactly when the control will activate the wax motor. It should be sometime in the main wash cycle. If your dishwasher has a mechanical timer you can turn it slowly while monitoring voltage, at some point you should see voltage at the wax motor. If your dishwasher has an electronic control you may be able to enter it into a service mode to manually activate the wax motor. Refer to the mini manual provided with the dishwasher for instructions on how to do so.
Springs
All dishwasher detergent dispensers have some sort of spring that opens the detergent door. It is very common for the spring to break on Whirlpool dishwashers with the dispenser door at the bottom right of the dishwasher door. Other springs such as the round type for GE hardly ever break but if they do, the dispenser will not work. So check to see if the spring is broken and if so replace it.
Some dishwashers have a dispenser modular and individual parts cannot be purchased. In this case you will have to replace the whole modular.
On some older Maytag dishwashers it is very common for the hook that sticks through the inner door that the dispenser door locks into will wear out or the spring will break. Look below the dispenser door and see if the hook is worn or if it doesn’t have spring tension.
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